Kitchen Fitting Guide

Intro:

Whilst the design and ordering stages will bring you to within touching distance of creating the kitchen of your dreams, a third and final key element also needs to be carefully considered: who will install and fit your new kitchen for you. 

WoodLiving’s own Kitchen Fitting Service is one cost-effective solution that we’d highly recommend - after all, nobody knows our furniture better than us and we offer a 10-year warranty on the stability of the kitchen as a whole when this service is used by our clients.

However, we also thought it would be useful to offer the following guide, in case you decide you’d rather go it alone or choose to engage another qualified kitchen fitter to do the work for you.  The guide is divided into two parts, which look at the general flow of work you need to follow and then some key points you or your fitter might need to know in relation to installing a WoodLiving modular kitchen from our Classic Pine Range.

Section 1 - The Workflow:

The following is generally regarded as the ‘industry standard’ workflow for fitting a new kitchen, based on the experiences of our own fitters alongside those of others who we’ve consulted:

  1. First and foremost, it’s always recommended that you get proper plans drawn up for your new kitchen, if possible using 3D CAD-generated images, which WoodLiving can help you with. Whoever fits your new kitchen will need to know exactly where the new cabinets and appliances will go. .  
  2. Next, it’s essential that you remove your old kitchen units in plenty of time before your new ones will arrive. This is especially true in case you’re modifying your plumbing or wiring.
  3. It’s also advisable that you arrange the delivery of any new appliances, prior to removing your old ones or your new kitchen units arriving. 
  4. Ensure all your old kitchen units are removed from the property altogether. If this is not possible, you should at least ensure old cabinets are at removed from the kitchen area itself and don’t obstruct access to the area (important for delivery of new appliances and cabinets, etc).
  5. You will then need to remove any existing fittings and tiles from wall and floors that are to be replaced, along with cleaning any damaged plasterwork.
  6. Then, and only then, can the installation itself begin. You should start with any 'first fix' electrical work and new wiring, which is dependent on potential new positions for your oven, fridge freezer, washers and dryers, under unit and plinth lights, and hood/extractor fan. Likewise, if you’re having a gas oven fitted and need any changes maded to your current installation (or a new one entirely), you’ll need to allow ample time for professional fitters to come and do the work.
  7. The next stage is the 'first fix' plumbing work. You should ensure that supply and waste flow will be able to connect to the new appliances, potentially in new positions within your kitchen, with the minimum of fuss.
  8. Following that, plasterwork can take place. Make sure all areas (even ones that will be hidden by your new cabinets) are secure and solid.
  9. It’s important to note that at this stage WoodLiving recommend the laying of your flooring or tiling takes place and runs directly to the edge of all walls (other fitters would suggest doing this after the installation of flat-packed kitchens furniture, but as our plinths and kickboards are integrated into the frame of our base cabinets, you will not have an opportunity to lay the flooring, even partially, underneath our units once they’ve been fitted).
  10. Once you’re at this stage you’ll be in a position to accept delivery of your WoodLiving kitchen units and worktop. As all our cabinets are handcrafted in a traditional method, they will arrive fully built, with the exception of the worktop and any long runs of cornices (which are simple to attach – see below).
  11. In terms of fitting the units, start with the base cabinets, which sit flush together, side by side (you can also screw these into each other if you so wish).
  12. Then you can hang your wall units into place, making sure the height between units are parallel to each other and align with any tall cupboards you’re having in your kitchen.
  13. The worktop/s will then need to be cut to size onsite (if we’ve not already received detailed instructions to pre-cut them for you to exact sizes). Joints will need butting and scribing to achieve a professional looking and "invisible" finish and spaces in the worktop cut out for the hob, sink etc.
  14. Following your furniture installation, a 'second fix' of the plumbing can then take place and the sink should be attached.
  15. Then the 'second fix' for electrics should be done, with chosen faceplates and lights put into place.
  16. You can then install your appliances, along with cornice, doors and handles (and any pelmets and fittings around the window).
  17. Then you can paint and/or tile the walls, if required.
  18. Finally, hob/sink areas should be sealed with a translucent anti-mould silicone seal, followed by a final seal/lacquer of the worktop if required.

Section 2 - Useful fitting information about WoodLiving’s Class Range kitchen furniture:

Please remember that if you order your kitchen units unpainted then they will arrive in a 'raw wood' state. In such situations, you must ensure that all items of furniture are stored in a dry area, whilst awaiting fitting. Failure to keep untreated units dry may result in moisture being absorbed by the raw wood which can result in the wood expanding and changing the shape of the cabinets, doors, etc. Also note that as the cabinets will be delivered fully assembled  if they are not fitted squarely or the floor is uneven, doors and drawers will not align.

The cabinets are relatively simple to fit and are supplied as fully assembled with drawers and doors fitted. For our in-frame kitchens (including all items in the Classic Pine Range)  the doors are already hung and fitted individually within the frame. In cases when they need to be removed when fitting, it is important that the correct doors are used in their original place when re-hanging, otherwise they may not line up correctly (each door is marked on the inside edge to indicate placement).

Scribing – For standard cabinets, the side frames are flush with the cabinet’s sides. If it is a requirement that a side frame should sit proud of any cabinets for scribing to a wall, then it should be stated clearly on the drawings and invoice (and overlap space to be stated in mm).

BASE CABINETS:

The standard height for our base cabinets is 890mm (not including the worktop). The standard depth of base cabinets is 580mm, which includes a 50mm service gap at the rear to allow for pipes, wires, utilities and other protrusions. If a smaller depth is required it is possible to cut down the side panels, although this will reduce the service gap. It is also possible to make units to a different specified depth, but this will be considered as a bespoke item and may change the price as shown in the price list. 

Drawers: All drawers are fitted with under-mount soft-close drawer runners which give a smooth gliding action. These are concealed on the underside of the drawer so are not visible when the drawers are open. They include adjustment mechanisms in 3 dimensions (up/down, sideways and front/back). We make sure to align the drawers properly, prior to packing and loading, however they will often require further adjustment after fitting due to movement in transit and installation, but this is simple to do. 

Shelves: All base cabinets with doors (full height or drawer-line) will come with an adjustable/removable shelf. Wall Cabinets will also come with a single adjustable shelf. We can provide additional shelves if required, but these will be charged additionally and should be clearly specified on the invoice.

Kickboards / Plinth:  Our standard ‘in-frame’ base cabinets have a 10cm gap underneath the cabinets to give the ‘Shaker’ look. However, if preferred we can also supply with kickboards (set back behind the legs) or a plinth (attached on the front of the cabinets). 

CORNER CABINETS:

Please ensure that you will be able to get L-shape cabinets into the kitchen (through doors and hallways, etc.) bearing in mind turning area. The depth of the L-shape corner cabinets at their least widest point is 680mm so doorways will need to allow for this. The L-shape corner cabinets come with an L-shape shelf as standard, but this can be removed if a carousel mechanism is required. 

WALL CABINETS:

The standard heights of the wall cabinets are 820mm and 630mm (+35mm for cornice if required). We can also make these as bespoke items if you required them to be taller. The standard depth of the wall cabinets is 350mm (external) and 307mm (internal). All Wall cabinets have a 32mm recess underneath to allow for hidden light fixings. We recommend allowing 450mm to 500mm space between the worktop and underside of the wall cabinets.

Cornice: If a cornice is required for single wall cabinet we will fit this with pin and glue, unless otherwise specified. If cornice is required for a run of wall cabinets, we will supply the cornice separately for your fitter to attach once the cabinets have been hung in place. In this case the cornice will be charged separately per meter.

Hanging:  We allow a 16mm void at the back of the wall cabinets (behind the backboards) to allow for most standard type hanging brackets.  The cabinets are also made with a 15mm thick cross brace at the top and bottom to allow the cabinets to be screwed directly to the wall if this is the preferred method of fixing.

HOUSING UNITS & INTEGRATED APPLIANCES:

It is advisable to inform us of the make and model of any appliances for which housing units will be required. However it will be your responsibility to check final dimensions of the drawings provided (internal and external) to ensure the appliance will fit. We also advise that you provide your fitter / installer with these drawings prior to confirming them. 

The standard internal depth for our housing units is 558mm. This will also allow for an integrated door to be attached. For free-standing appliances which require a covered door, a deeper cabinet is often required, in which case the cabinet will need to be a bespoke item. Please note that this may affect the depth of the worktop and any adjacent cabinets.

TALL CABINETS:

When using our standard cabinets, the tops are designed to line up with any adjacent wall cabinet when the space between worktop and underside of the wall cabinet is 450mm. This is important when lining up the cornice.

Please ensure that you will be able to get tall cabinets into the kitchen (through doors and hallways,etc.) bearing in mind total height and turning space required when carrying on their side.

BESPOKE ITEMS:

We consider any item which is not in our standard range as a ‘Bespoke’ item, even if it’s a small change in detail. Bespoke items are generally charged more than standard items of a similar size as more time is required in the design, preparation and manufacturing process. We will make an individual drawing for any bespoke item which must be confirmed by email prior to manufacture.

FIXINGS & MECHANISMS:

All fixings and mechanisms such as pull-out trays, baskets, larder shelves, bins and carousels etc will be provided separately to the cabinets for your fitter to install. 

WORKTOPS:

We offer a wide variety of worktops in solid wood, stone, granite, Quartz, marble, slate and more. Please see our website or separate information guide for more details. We can provide any wooden worktop either pre-cut or as a blank as preferred. For L-shape layouts or configurations which require the worktops joining, then we strongly recommend they are provided as blanks and cut to size on site by your fitter (we also provide an on-site service if required, please see worktop price list for more details and costs).

Should you prefer that the worktops are provided pre-cut by us then this size must be clearly stated on the invoice and related drawings. We also recommend allowing an additional 50mm tolerance to each length so they can be trimmed to fit on site.

For other non-wood worktops, these can only be provided separately by our partner suppliers and will required templating and installing after fitting of the cabinets.

PAINTING:

Our standard paint finish is water based acrylic ‘Egg-Shell’, which is specifically for wooden cabinets and kitchens. It is very durable and can be wiped down and cleaned easily. We offer a selection of popular colours and can also match to a particular colour if required. All the cabinets are properly prepared prior to painting including fine sanding, knotting and 2 coats of undercoat / primer, sanded between each coat. We apply 2 top coats which are sprayed to give an even finish.

HANDLES:

We offer a wide selection of handles and knobs which can be found on our website. We offer a service to pre-dill the holes for fixing the handles but do not attach them prior to delivery to avoid damage to the cabinets in transit.